Each person should have one set of 3 darts. Each person throws 3 darts, then removes them before the next person throws.

--> There should NEVER be more than 3 darts in a dartboard at one time.

It is difficult to share one set of darts, as it drastically slows down the game. Also, people have considerably different hand and finger sizes, so darts are not one-sixe-fits-all. When buying darts, visit a darts shop that has boards setup for trying out the various darts styles available.

Brass Darts

This is the least expensive type:
Brass is a fairly dense (heavy) metal, is relatively inexpensive, and is easy to machine. Unfortunately, it is so soft that the machined "grip" may quickly dull and wear down, changing the "feel" of the dart. Also, since Brass Darts are commonly mass-produced, the quality and consistency of the machining may vary considerably. Brass darts are often used as "house darts" due to low cost.

Nickel/Silver Darts

Like Brass, this is a fairly dense (heavy) metal, is relatively inexpensive, and is easy to machine. However, Nickel/Silver is harder and therefore more durable, which prevents the machined grip from wearing away as rapidly. Otherwise, similar to Brass Darts, and popular with budget-minded beginners. (Note: There is no actual Silver content; this Nickel and Tin alloy is often used for the moving parts of silver jewelry and for trophies.)

Tungsten Darts

Tungsten is an extremely dense metal, heavier than lead. It is also very durable, so a high-density tungsten dart resists wear and the grip will last much longer. On softer metal darts, the grooves and rough knurling may wear down fairly quickly from skin acid, friction, and hitting other darts.

There are 4 rough categories of Tungsten darts.

1. 50% to 70% Tungsten -

2. 80% Tungsten -

3. 90% Tungsten -

4. 95% to 98% Tungsten -

Both types are alloyed with Nickel and are referred to as "Nickel/Tungsten" Darts. They are more dense than Brass or Nickel/Silver Darts. This means smaller diameter barrels, better "feel", and tighter possible groups on the dart-board. Tungsten is also very durable, and the machined grip will not wear down as rapidly as on Brass or Nickel/Silver Darts.

The very low density Tunsten darts sold at discount outlets generally do not specify a percentage of Tungsten content, but just say "Tungsten Darts". These are often cheap Chinese imports of poor quality. Look for the percentage of tungsten on the packaging, a higher number means that the dart is more dense, and generally better quality.

There are also a small number of Copper-Tungsten darts available. This is a much softer material, with about 70% Tungsten content. They are generally quite inexpensive.

 

 

 

SHAFTS

SHAFTS - Plastic

Inexpensive, and available in many colors, but break fairly easily. Good shafts until you start throwing tight groups and breaking lots of shafts. Materials are usually polycarbonate or nylon, some have replaceable tops for greater longevity. Priced from $1 to $2.

SHAFTS - Composite

Composite type shafts, like the Alamo or Quiver, have plastic bases that thread into the dart, combined with aluminum or other metal alloy tops that hold the flight. These are excellent shafts, quite durable, and will not vibrate loose as easily as solid aluminum shafts. Generally available with replaceable tops for economy and convenience. Most styles priced at $2 to $3.

SHAFTS - Solid Aluminum

More rigid and durable than Plastic or Composite Shafts, in many colorful styles, some with decorative engraved stripes, flutes, or spirals. May tend to vibrate loose, especially on heavy darts. When used with thick flights, such as Dimplex or Nylon, the slots may need to be pried open slightly, with a dart tool or knife blade. Will normally bend instead of breaking when hit; just straighten for more use. Priced from $3 to $6.

Note: Aluminum shafts often vibrate loose when playing, so rubber O-ring lock washers are highly recommended. This only occurs when there is a metal-to-metal contact, so plastic shafts do not normally need the lock washers.

SHAFTS - Spinning

A variety of shaft styles are now available, that allow the flight to turn out of the way when struck by another dart. Spinning shafts do nothing to improve the flight of the dart through the air, but they do allow tighter groups by letting the flights align with each other. Also, these shaft will greatly reduce torn flights and "rovin-hooded" shafts. Priced from $2 to $12.

 

Rules to the Darts Game of '01, (pronounced " Oh-One")

The game of '01 is the classic game of Darts, played world-wide. The "01" refers to the fact that the game is played from a certain number of points, always ending in "01". For example, the common tournament game of 501 (pronounced "Five-Oh-One"), is played from 501 points. Other variations are 301, 601, 801, 1001. The higher point games are usually played by teams.

The object of the game is simple... each player starts with the same score (501, for example) and the first to reduce his score to zero wins.

Players take turns throwing three darts each and subtract all points scored from their own beginning score (501). Each player removes his darts and marks his score before the opponent throws. Darts that bounce off or miss the board do not score and cannot be rethrown that turn.

The difficult part of the game lies in the finish, known as "going-out". To win, you must reach zero before your opponent, but you must also reach exactly zero, and the dart that brings the score down to zero must be a double. Doubles consist of the numbers in the outside narrow scoring band and the center (small) bullseye which counts as 50 points and is an actual double of the outer 25-point bull.

For instance, if you have 2 points left, you must hit a double-1 to bring the score down to zero. From 18 points, a double-9 would work. If you have an odd number left (a number that cannot be divided by 2), then darts must be thrown to reduce the score to an even number, before throwing at a double. For instance, there is no possible double out from 19, so a way to finish would be to throw a single-3 first, reducing the score to 16. The 16 can then be "taken-out" by throwing a double-8.

The games of 501, 601, 801, 1001, etc. are all played the same way, except for starting with more points. The game of 301 is different, however. Because of the potential for a very short game, 301 has an added difficulty...the game must start with a double. That is, each player must hit a double (any double) to start scoring. Each players scoring begins with the score of the first dart that hits a double.
 

 

FLIGHTS...What kind to use?

Flights are the fins or wings found at the back of a dart. They serve to stabilize the dart during flight and are made of various materials...

SOFT FLIGHTS are made of a flexible plastic sheet, preprinted with a variety of designs and then folded into shape. Adhesive (glue) holds the layers of plastic together. If the flight is torn during use, the layers can be pressed together with fingers and the adhesive will "heal" the tear. Another benefit of this type of flight is that a Soft Flight will often flex out of the way if another dart hits it. These flights are available in hundreds of bright, attractive designs. Also known as "Reseal Flights".

HARD FLIGHTS are made of a stiff polyester plastic that holds shape well. The layers are permanently sealed together by heat during manufacture. Because the plastic is harder, they don't tear as easily as Soft Flights... however if they do tear, they cannot be resealed and are ruined. Hard Flights do not flex like a Soft Flight when hit, but do "pop off" the shaft when hitting another dart. This is desirable as it reduces deflection and allows tight groups. Hard Flights were originally made of a clear plastic, which resulted in fairly dull colors in printed designs. During the last few years, Melinex, a type of opaque plastic, has been used for printing hundreds of brighter designs. Also known as "Poly Flights"

NYLON FLIGHTS, made of ripstop nylon fabric, ar by far the most durable type of flight. Although not resealable, they are very hard to tear. The stiffness varies according to the weight and type of fabric used by the manufacturer, but is roughly midway between Soft and Hard flights. The most common point of wear with this flight is at the front, where it is inserted into the shaft. Since ripstop nylon is a thicker material, it is important to pry open the slots on the shaft for a properly loose fit to avoid damage to the flight. Nylon Flights are available in solid colors or several dozen printed designs.

DIMPLEX, RIBTEX, and other similar styles are actually hard flights which have been embossed with a texture. The bumpy or ribbed surface tends to stiffen the flight, which some darters consider desirable. The extra surface area also adds a small amount of drag to the flight, which makes the dart slightly more stable in some cases.

--- All types of flights tend to split at the back center, where the folds meet and are hit by dart points. FLIGHT PROTECTORS are small metal or plastic devices that fit over and protect this a

There are a number of common bad darts habits, including:

LEANING way over the line to get closer to the board. This one is a real loser, since leaning robs the darter of stability. The feet and legs should be positioned in a solid, comfortable, and relaxed stance, with weight distributed to both feet. Excessive leaning places nearly all of the body weight on one foot, tiring the shooter in long matches and damaging accuracy in the short run.

The few inches gained by leaning over the line are simply not worth the huge loss of balance and stability, plus leaning lowers the shoulder, forcing one to throw upwards, fighting gravity. Leaning also usually means tensing the major muscles of the body to preserve balance. This often results in a jerky release and poor follow-through, since the body is already off-balance.

A number of long-time players report back, knee, ankle, and foot pain, from spending many years standing on one foot while playing darts. Even in the short run, leaning to throw will cause minor pain in the small of the back. Especially for older players, a firm stance will stop this discomfort, both while playing and the next morning!

If someone argues the point with you, think about this.. In what other sport would you drink a six-pack of beer, stand "tiptoe" on one foot, and try to compete in an accuracy competition? In every competitive sport, accuracy begins with a solid stance!

LUNGING or lifting the back foot off the floor during the toss to get a harder throw. Lunging is one of the worst habits, as it affects the entire body and throw. Lifting the foot even partway from the floor deprives the body of good balance during the crucial moment of follow-through. The strength required to reach the board with any normal dart is minimal, and for best accuracy should be provided only by the fingers, wrist, and forearm. Missing the board or hitting too low often cause beginners to think that more power is needed. This is rarely true, as one can tell by the fact that the missed darts usually stick in the wall, which is quite a bit harder than a bristle dartboard. The problem lies with the accuracy of the throw and follow through. Even small children can be taught to throw accurately without lunging or using the shoulders in a throw.

HOLDING THE DART SIDEWAYS, or in any other position than level and pointed at the board. Skill at darts, or any other target sport, means being able to perform the same motion exactly the same way, time after time. Common sense, as well of years of studies in other sports, show that all non-essential motion should be avoided and discarded from the routine.

In Darts, this means that if the dart is to strike the board at a level attitude (nearly always the best), it should be held and thrown from a position as close to level as is possible. Any other position (such as point-up, point-down, or sideways) means extra motion of all the hand and wrist muscles to correct the initial starting position. Pure wasted effort... and usually futile, since the dart will likely leave the hand at an angle and wobble all the way to the board. The darts also may stick in the board at odd angles, especially after a long period of play when concentration starts to slip a little.

THROWING THE DARTS, like a baseball is unnecessary and even dangerous, as a dart thrown too hard may hit a wire or other object and bounce clear across the room to hit someone. Dartboard wires get bent and the bristles crushed from this type of abuse. Fortunately "baseball throwers" usually stop after a while, either due to the laughter of spectators or the frowns of the bar manager. This method is also hopelessly inaccurate, as all of the major strength muscles and very few of the fine control muscles are used. A dart should never be thrown so hard that the front of the dart barrel touches the bristles. If this happens when a dart is thrown normally, then the dart point is too short and should be changed at a darts shop.

SPINNING the dart as you release it to add stability. Actually, this is wasted effort at best, and can actually make your game worse by causing uneven release. Most darts flights are not shaped to properly induce spin, and the darts actually fly for too short a distance (about 5 feet) for aerodynamic spin to be a stabilizing factor anyway.

Spinning the dart is often done inadvertently, and is a symptom of uneven release. As the hand opens, if the thumb leaves the dart before the fingers, the dart will roll sideways off the fingers, causing the dart to spin. All parts of the hand should leave the dart at nearly the same time to ensure level flight. To achieve this, make opening the hand a positive motion, and open the fingers and thumb rapidly to an extended position, ending up pointing at the target. This will also help keep the flights from touching the fingers as the dart leaves the hand.

 

 

Soft Tip Darts

1. Description

A light weight dart with a soft plastic point is thrown at a board consisting of a perforated plastic face. Each hole in the board is sized to fit the dart point and has beveled edges to facilitate entry of the point. A series of sensors and circuits behind the face of the dartboard note the impact and inform the central computer processor, which calulates and displays the score for the players to see. Note: The score displayed by the machine cannot be corrected, and for league play "the machine is always right!" No matter how badly it actually mis-scored.

In early 1999, the recommended maximum weight for soft tip darts was raised to 18 grams, for league and tournament play. The actual machines used in bars can accomodate darts up to 25 grams or more, without damage to the board. However, darts over 20 grams tend to break lots of tips, so their use is discouraged. Check with your local league to see if they enforce any weight limits, as some are quite strict, and other leagues may not care what you throw.

2. Manufacturers

Most coin-op machines in the USA are made by Arachnid or Medalist. The major coin-op manufacturers also help setup leagues to play on their machines, and have national competitions.

Quite a few companies import and market home versions of soft-tip darts machines.

2. Measurements

Most games are played about the same way as for steel-pointed darts, except that the throwing distance is 8 feet for soft-tip machines. The height to the center of the board is 68 inches, the same height as an English Clockface Bristle board. Rules of play and weight limits for Soft-tip darts are generally set by the manufacturers at their annual meetings.